不可能的任務

五月二十一日

星期四回港接到Bernard Lee長長的電郵，報告他西藏之旅最新行踪，相比我世博之行，當然更加精彩萬分，他原文是英語，希望我的翻譯能夠保持原汁原味：

行程第八至九天(五月十五至十六日)
經過上日一整天的休息充電，狀態回勇，試圖征服第二個海拔4,412公尺的高山，雖知路途艱辛，相信敵不過我們的決心，結果中午過後，便成功征服這第二難關，可惜隨即下降2,530公尺，前功盡廢，白花先前力氣！我們沒按計劃，在建議的地點投宿，繼續爬上17公尺的路段，誰料這短短的路程，竟然是出發至今最困難的路段，足足花了四個小時，筋疲力竭下完成這區區的17公尺！耗盡最後一點一滴的體力，才勉強在入黑前到達目的地，當晚我吃不下，倒頭便睡；第二天起牀，感到輕微發燒，身體既然已發出警號，如果勉強勞動已經過份疲憊的身軀，只會令行程提早結束，權衡利弊，在極不情願的情況下，決定和四位同行的隊友，乘公車到下一站位於海拔3,968公尺的中途站，稍作休息，等候其他隊友到達，再一起繼續餘下旅程。

第十天（五月十七日）
有心理準備今天將會是非常長長長 ... 的一天，一大清早五時便起牀，五時五十分當晨光第一線穿破漆黑的夜空，我們連忙出發，初段45公里的風光暫時是整個行程中最美、最享受的一段，泉水在草地上流湍，清脆悅耳的鳥聲環迴放送，全境觀白皚皚的雪山境色，令人忘卻氣溫只有攝氏兩度和四千公尺高原上的稀薄氧氣，可惜好景不常，隨後5公里的泥路崎嶇不平，當路面情況逐漸改善之際，迎面而來的強風接力挑戰我們往後的40公里；當我途經一條村落時，一隻龐大的黑狗（相信是藏獒）追逐我的單車，正以每小時9公尺速度攀爬斜坡的我，竟然又無意地挑釁另一頭大黑狗向我飛樸過來，我下意識地沒命加速逃命，幸好牠們只追趕了一分鐘便放棄，但已足以令我差點暈倒；可是大難不死，不一定有後福，因為緊接著的是另一條「不可能應付」的斜坡，路程很短，只有12公里，但斜度驚人，直達4,685公尺的山顛，首幾公里還可以，接下來的路段，烈風從四面八方，神出鬼沒地偷襲我們，側風曾經兩度把我的單車吹倒，摔跌便爬起來，蹣跚地再度騎上單車努力前行，車速因為惡劣的環境，減慢為時速約4、5公里，最後的兩公里，我只能扶著單車一步一步地用腿走路；當到達山頂，抬頭一望，發現眼前美景真是非筆墨所能形容，途中經歷的一切驚險和辛勞都是藉得的，難怪常道「無限風光在險峰」，稍事休息和盡情拍照留念後，便要面對漫長的下山行程，從4,685公尺下降至2,425公尺，我最高的時速曾經達到時速54公里，雖然亡命趕路仍然無法於入黑前到達目的地，只好在漆黑中繼續前行行重行行，直至晚上九時三十分，全日行車時間共計12小時30分鐘，完成180公里的路段，刷新另一個記錄。

第十一日（五月十八日）
終於到達四川省的邊緣，氣溫變得非常高，我的溫度計顯示攝氏42度，但我們仍然戰意高昂；當我們嘗試進入西藏時，邊境的關卡竟然拒我這個香港人入藏，原來當地是軍事重鎮，非內地居民只能繞道從附近另一個口岸進入，雖說附近，但仍免不了額外的兩三天的車程，然後再得花上幾天時間折返，追趕大隊，換句話，我必需單獨一個人在全然陌生的路上走5至6天，實在太危險了！唯有盡最後努力，至電當地香港辦事署，看看能否特批通容，可惜他們重申只能繞道前往，別無他法，無計可施，無可奈何，我只能失望地終止這次西藏之行。

第十二日(五月十九日)
乘公車回成都，慢慢接受被迫中止行程的現實，還未回家腦海便已開始計劃下次行程，今次雖然未能如願完成西藏之行，但箇中歷練確實能增添下次成功的機會，乾脆視今次一行為將來更遠更美好的行程打好基礎，反正「世上無難事，只要肯登攀」（Bernard的經歷令我兩度聯想毛澤東的詩詞，奇怪！）。


最後Bernard總結他西藏之行：
對我來說西藏之行到底是行動？是挑戰？還是經歷？我不清楚，可能是潛藏在我體內的基因促使我走這一段路，子非魚焉知魚之樂！這短短的十來日，我嘗試了許多嶄新的事物，打破無數禁忌，認識許多不同背景、不同年紀，但志同道合的新朋友，種種經歷令我重拾青春，甚至有重生的感覺，西藏，我一定會再來！

他的經歷感動了我，相信亦感動了你，為防翻譯失實，以下是他的原文：

Day 8-9. After a rest day, we climbed the second mountain that is above 4Km (4412km). It was difficult but not impossible and we completed it in the early afternoon and then descent back to 2530km. What a waste !! We didn't follow the recommended place for resting for that night and pushed forward for an additional 17km uphill. Only 17km !! However, it was the most difficult climb so far and I used 4 hrs to complete 17km and I was totally exhaused, in fact collapsed. I barely reached the target place before complete darkness. I couldn't eat that night and the next morning I have a slight temperture. I know I need to rest otherwise I will definitely drain out and need to withdraw from the trip. After much struggle, I together with four others, decided to take the bus to the next destination 燴攽, the highest city in the world (3968km), resting and waiting for the team to arrive.

Day 10. This will be a long day. We got up at 5:00am and started the journey from 5:50am, when we have the first sun light. We ride through the most beautiful trail so far. Spring water flowing on the pasture, morning bird singing, no cars, 360 degree surrounded by snow mountains ... The first 45km is my most enjoyable ride experience in my life, despite it was only 2 degree celcius and riding on 4km above sea level. We then have mud/gravel road for 5km. When the road condition getting better, head wind became the biggest obstacle on the rest of the 40km journey. When I passed by a village, I was being chased by a big dog (tibetan mastiff). I was climbing a slope at 9km/h, a balck dog jump out on me. I accelarated for my life and lasted for a minute before the dog gave up. I almost pass out. We then arrived at the "impossible slope", only 12km but steep, all the way to 漆赽刓(4685km). The first few kms were still managable. We then experienced very strong gusty wind, head and side. climbing can only be done at 4-5km/h. I was being knock down by side wind, crawl up, ride again then knock down again (twice). I exhaused all my energy and have to push my bike for the last 2km. All these hardship became well worth when we reached the top. It was so beautiful that words could not express. After a rest and photo time, we started the longest down hill (90km), descent down to 2425km. My max speed was 54km/h (record so far). Despite of that we still couldn't reached the destination before the dark and we continued to ride at night (I mean total darkness). We arrived at 9:30pm and completed 180km on that day. Total ride time of that day is 12 hours and 30 mins, another record.

Day 11. We will transit from 捶 to 紲on this day. Nice ride, except the temperture recorded by my meter is 42 degree C. Burning hot. When I passed the border, I was being refused by the officer because I am a HK residence. I could not enter XiZang from that port because that area is a military base. I could enty XiZang from a near by port but we are talking about 2-3 days of bike ride from there and thereafter I have to find a way to cut back to 318. It may mean a 5-6 day ride, alone, without road information. It is too risky. I called up the HK Office in CD and they confirmed that there is nothing that they could do. I call off the trip and was very disappointed.

Day 12. Return back to CD by bus. Accepted the fact and started planning for my next trip on the bus (菲紲盄). I see this trip as part of my preparation and stepping stone for my next wonderful trip to come.

I composed this email at home. Home, what a wonderful place. Clean toilet, hot shower, back ground music, comfortable bed, nice food ...What am I looking for ? Actions ? Challenges ? Experiences ? I don't fullly understand it but I think there is a DNA in my blood that drive me to do this. If you are not a fish, you couldn't understand how a fish feel when it is in the water. This short trip make me feel younger, almost like reborned. I tried a lot of new things, tored down some taboos, making new friiends with very different backgrounds and age groups.

Tibet, I'll be back.